An item that gives every indication it is Gullah is Frogmore Stew. One of the identifying and codifying traditional foods of the South Carolina Low Country, it is relatively new. It is said to have been invented in 1958. Though named after an area on St. Helena, this dish was created by a white man and the key regional ingredient is Old Bay. Despite superficial indication Frogmore Stew has little to do with the Gullah cooking tradition.
The Frogmore Stew, now more often called Low Country Boil, is not traditional because of its ingredients or flavor profile. It is traditional to the region because of the social way it is eaten and enjoyed. It represents the way that people in the South, particularly the Low Country, like to experience their food. Sharing food and the social quality of meals is a major focus of the people of Charleston.
We asked many people each day on our trip to South Carolina where their favorite place to eat was. We ask this question often when we travel and never previously have we seen such excitement and passionate answers. The interesting thing about asking this question is that way that people are unwilling to answer with their favorite, they want it to feel important to you too, like you have some investment.
There is a restaurant on Sullivan's Island called Obstinate Daughter. They feature a farm fresh concept that goes beyond just trend factor. Their Frogmore Chowder was an impressive attempt at elevating and condensing the non social aspects of a Low Country boil into a single dish. Of particular enjoyment was the way that the cream soup base was not slimy and overly fishy in taste. I am not now, nor have I ever been, a lover a seafood. But when I left for South Carolina I told myself I would have to eat and experience it all, including the seafood and shellfish that is so important to Gullah cuisine. It was refreshing to come across a dish that showed so much respect for its ingredients that the chowder broth could stand on its own.
Obstinate Daughter provided the Washington Post with the following recipe on April 8, 2015
This elegant take on the classic low-country sausage-and-shrimp stew contains a generous amount of cream, turning it into a rich chowder.
Serve with oyster crackers.
Make Ahead: The chowder can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat over low heat until warmed through.
SERVINGS:
8 servings; makes about 9 1/2 cups
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for optional drizzling
1 large white onion, cut into small dice (2 cups)
2 cups diced celery
2 cups fresh or frozen/defrosted corn
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
1/2 cup flour
4 1/2 cups clam juice (bottled is fine, low-sodium if you can find it)
2 cups heavy cream
Kosher salt
2 cups quartered fingerling potatoes (11 to 12 ounces total)
3 to 4 links cooked kielbasa sausage, cut into 1/4-inch slices (about 1 pound total)
1 pound (21-25 count) raw shrimp, peeled and deveined
Chopped chives, for serving
DIRECTIONS
Combine the oil, onion, celery, corn and thyme in a large pot over medium heat, stirring to coat. Cook for about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion becomes translucent.
Add the wine; increase the heat to medium-high. Once the wine comes to a boil, cook for 7 or 8 minutes or until it has reduced by half.
Whisk in the flour; once it’s evenly blended (to form a kind of roux), reduce the heat to low. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring a few times. Gradually stir in the clam juice and the cream; increase the heat to medium just long enough for the mixture to come to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, stirring occasionally.
Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the potatoes and cook for about 9 minutes, until just tender. Drain and add to the large pot along with the kielbasa (to taste). Cook until the sausage has warmed through, then add the shrimp; cook for 3 to 5 minutes, just until opaque and pink, then remove from the heat.
Divide among individual bowls; garnish each portion with the chives and a drizzle of the oil, if desired. Serve hot.
Great reading
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